Malacca has always been my top favourite
state in Malaysia due to their special political and cultural history. It’s
also the only state in Malaysia to have
been colonized/influenced by the Dutch, Brits, Portuguese, Chinese and Malay. Thus,
giving it a colorful taste to their cuisine, architecture and even language.
It
all started out with the Baba Nyonya history, where it originated from Malacca,
and later on these descendents moved to the other Chinese straits, such as
Penang & Singapore when the British ruled. This cultural mix started when
early Chinese traders started to take Malay women
from Peninsular Malaya or Sumatra as wives or concubines. Consequently, the
Baba Nyonya possessed a synergistic mix of Sino-Malay cultural traits. Not long
later, Chinese men in Singapore and Penang were also
supplied with slave wives of Bugis, Batak, and Balinese origin. The British tolerated the importation
of slave wives since they improved the standard of living for the slaves and
provided contentment to the male population.
Baba Nyonya subscribed to Chinese beliefs:
Taoism, Confucianism and Chinese Buddhism. They celebrated the Lunar Chinese New Year, while adopting the customs of the land they settled in, as
well as those of their colonial rulers. Moreover, from the Malay
influence a unique "Nyonya" cuisine has
developed using typical Malay spices, hence the unique cuisine of Chinese
dishes (mostly Hokkien influence) with the touch of Malay spices.
The language of the Peranakans, Baba Malay (Bahasa Melayu Baba), is a dialect
of the Malay language (Bahasa Melayu), which contains many Hokkien words. It is a dying language, and its contemporary
use is mainly limited to members of the older generation. English has now replaced
this as the main language spoken amongst the younger generation.
Peranakan culture has started to disappear in Malaysia and
Singapore, resulting in the assimilation of Peranakans back into mainstream
Chinese culture. Singapore classifies the Peranakans as ethnically Chinese, so
they receive formal instruction in Mandarin Chinese as
a second language (after English), instead of Malay. In Malaysia, the
standardization of Malay (required for
all ethnic groups), has led to a disappearance of the unique characteristics of
Baba Malay.
So now let’s move on to the food. They aren’t particularly
Baba Nyonya cuisine (I didn’t have the time to visit any), but at least you can’t
find them anywhere else in Malaysia. Be prepared to queue.
Hoe Kee
Chicken Rice & Asam Fish
This isn’t the best in Melacca, but it’s the second best. :p This restaurant is located at the start of Jonker street,
and has a queue nonetheless, but I’m glad to say that the queue is still
bearable as compared to the best chicken rice restaurant (which unfortunately I
was not able to get the name of, maybe next time).
A whole steamed chicken was RM 34 (approx SGD
14/EUR 8). They were generous with their soya sauce and cucumber. The chicken
was smooth and tender, not too dry, and the rice was fragrant. We weren’t able to order
the Rice balls since it was sold out, but you should try it if you get the chance.
A big plate of Asam Fish (Tamarind Fish) was
also RM 34 (approx SGD14/EUR 8). It wasn’t spicy, but sour enough. The
Asam/Tamarind Fish paste is made with red chili, garlic, shallots, ginger,
shrimp paste, tamarind pulp. I couldn’t taste much of the ginger in the fish
and yet it wasn’t fishy. Thumbs up!
The restaurant has a very Chinese décor to it,
with the wooden entrances and Chinese lettering on them. The service wasn't
too shabby and fast, given that they were under-staffed. All in all, a good way to
try the famous Chicken Rice without a long wait.
Final
verdict: 8/10
Location: 4,
6, 8 Jonker Street (Jalan Hang Jebat), 75200 Melacca.
Jonker 88
Chendol and Laksa
There's 2 stalls just outside the restaurant. On
the right is your laksa queue, and on the left is your chendol. You need to
queue (under the hot sun), order, and find a place to sit inside (if youre
lucky).
We had the best selling Chendol – Baba Chendol
(RM 3/SGD 1.2/ EUR 0.70). The Baba Chendol has sweetened Kidney Beans, Chendol
(made from green pea and pandan leaves), Gula Melaka (palm sugar) and Santan
(coconut milk). I have had many chendols in Kuala Lumpur, but none of them had
the strong taste of the Gula Melaka and the fragrance of the Santan. It is
advisable to crush the ice and mix all the ingredients well to get an even
taste. If you don’t like it sweet, you could ask them to give you more shaved
ice.
Or if you love the Gula Melaka and Sagu a lot, I’d recommend trying the Sagu
Gula Melaka (but it was too sweet for me). I’ve also heard the Durian Chendol
is a hit! But I personally prefer eating Durian on its own fresh. =)
Gula Melaka (Palm Sugar)
Final
verdict: 8.5/10
Moving on to the Laksa. There are 3 choices:
Pure Curry, Pure Asam Laksa, or Curry Laksa. We ordered all 3 of them to try.
And unfortunately, the Curry wasn’t as I expected, it was not thick enough. The
Asam was ok, but I was hoping for some He Koh (Prawn paste), Fish and Mint
leaves like the Penang style Asam Laksa. This however, only had the sour taste
to it, but nothing more. What impressed me was the Curry Laksa, although it
wasn’t the best I’ve ever had, but the you can actually taste the combination
of both the Curry and Laksa (since we had the other 2 soup to try as well). But
it would have been better if there was more Santan in all the soup base, making
it thick and fragrant.
Each bowl of either Curry, Laksa or Curry Laksa has
chicken slices, tao pok (fried bean curd), fu chok (fried fish slices in soy
skin) and a shrimp. You have the choice of noodles: bee hoon, yellow mee or
laksa noodles.
Final
verdict: 6.5/10
Location:
Jonker 88, Jalan Hang Jebat, 75200 Melacca.
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